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voyage
to kudymkar
The
idea of the "twins" could not emerge out of the thin air. The most
important magic lessons we do not receive from the books, and certainly
not from the TV, but only from other people. Where the true secret
knowledge exists, there are always the pupil and the teacher.
I had such a meeting in my life. I have met my "benefactor",
who in a short time managed to pass to me something that I do not
understand fully even now. Undoubtedly, this was one of the most
important and meaningful lessons in my life. In a single day I was
pointed to more secrets and mysteries of the Universe than I could
obtain from books for several years.
And it happened in the year 1992, in small Uralian
town of Kudymkar, the capital of Komi-Permian district in Russia,
where the Komi-Permians constitute more than half of the population.
This town is situated only 200 km from my native city of Perm',
but it is not so easy to get to it.
Kudymkar,
the capital of Komi-Permian Autonomous District. Lumber, ore, food
and linen manufactures. Drama theater. Appeared in 16th century.
You
see that "Soviet enciclopaedical dictionary" has not much to say.
On the map of Russia Kudymkar is an invisible city, a point not
at all significant because of its littleness. The population of
Kudymkar is only some 35 000 people.
But on the map of Occult Russia, if there ever be such,
this little boring provincial town would've been quite notorious.
It has its special aura and mythological background which
can be easy felt in its air.
Perhaps Kudymkar as a municipal unit was registered
in 16th century indeed; but archaeological researches show that
the settlement on the left bank of the Kuva river was established
some nine centuries before, in 7th century. In those times there
was kind of metallurgical center in well-fortified estate of one
of Komi-Permian tribes.
In 16th century Russian settlers colonized this land.
In early 17th century there have been erected the first Christian
church with chapel -- the temple of Nikolaj the Miraculous. Old
wooden idols were replaced with new Muscovite ones. This was the
beginning of the amalgamation of local pagan culture with imported
Russian Orthodox culture, the amalgamation resulted in amazing synthetic
folklore which now constantly attracts the attention of the scholars.
In the year 1990 the decree of Russian Ministry of
Culture have declared Kudymkar a monument of history.
In summer 1992 I had been sent by Permian State University to Kudymkar
with a small ethnographical expedition. I have just finished my
first year on Russian language and literature; I was hungry for
new, non-academic knowledge. There was no need to long persuade
me to go where the true magicians and seers live.
We were three: two young ufologists from Perm, and
me, first year University student.
Officially I was sent to gather folklore; but actually
I expected much more of this voyage. Actually I wanted to obtain
extraordinary spiritual experience in Kudymkar. And it looks like
I have obtained it, though then I have returned to Perm largely
disappointed v it seemed to me that I had not received serious knowledge,
but only some vague hints. (Now I think that my "benefactor" created
that impression meaningly: I was too young then, too uneven and
too selfish to use properly the knowledge gained. The knowledge
was kind of conserved in my psychic, and it had manifested itself
much later, when my student age was already over.
When we came to Kudymkar, we saw a small backwoods
Uralian town, with all its advantages and disadvantages, with deep
unpassable dirt on the main street and sleepy inhabitants. The impression
I received from the first sight was a depressing one. That was spiritually
cloggy and fuggy territory where you feel yourself either an unwanted
guest or a perfect stranger. That was obviously not a Russian town.
Everything was different there, in their own way, though all the
signboards and everything written was written in Russian.
"Folklore sources" were not to be searched far. Old
cottages and old customs were closely adjacent to restaurant and
state institutions in the very center of the town. We were lodged
in the town's museum, and in the several following days we have
made sorties to the addresses prepared beforehand. We were interested
in Kudymkar wise women, magicians, possessed men and the "knowing
ones" ("todys'").
As a good University student, I have recorded slummock
stuttering of the local half-crazy old hags who were presented to
us as some unbelievably mighty witches. For the most part those
were humdrums about bewitching, blights and strokes, about kerkasa
- brownies who live in the attics, about sheva who settles
inside the man unnoticed and starts to affect him from within.
I have seen the woman who lived together with two dozens
of lame cats and dogs, and who had a brownie spirit in her attics.
I was shown local epileptic, who told me in details how she was
bewitched in her youth when she was given a glass of malt bespoiled
with an evil magic during the haymaking.
But the main event of the expedition was the acquaintance
with the "knowing woman" T.N., 80 y.o.. It was she who reported
to me several mantic secrets of the Komi. She also performed upon
me a ritual which, some reservations being made, can be considered
as an initiation.
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